Classic Hollandaise Sauce

There really aren’t any good photos for this post, so I do apologize in advance.  Yesterday, I got the bright idea to not only make the English Muffins, but I also chose to make poached eggs, bacon, and Hollandaise sauce.  Upon reading through my recipe a few times, I realized I was in trouble.  Most of the food stuffs were done at the same time and I only had about half of my already too small counter space since the hubs was in the middle of a project on our kitchen door (the one that leads out to the garden and deck/backyard).  Amid the tools and tiles, I managed to spread about my cookbooks and pans, while the little guy bounced blissfully in a doorway.  Happy as a clam, he cooed and squealed as I rushed about the kitchen.  

I used my Mastering the Art of French Cooking and found the directions simple and straight forward.  Julia had once said that she was too obvious to be a spy, but I think her blunt manner is what made her an excellent teacher.  She has 2 versions of the recipe in her book, one to be made by hand and one by “electric blender”.  I chose to do the hand method, otherwise, I figured it really wouldn’t be much of a challenge.  And really, I should be able to do these basic sauces without any outside help, don’t you think?  I cut the recipe in third so as to accommodate 2 people, but I will type out the entire recipe for you below.  Let me just say that there is something so satisfying when you beat the dickens out of eggs and watch as they absorb the most heavenly of all staples; butter.  

Hollandaise and Bearnaise sauces are siblings in the family that is the French mother sauces.  Their cousin is Mayonnaise.  The main difference between Hollandaise and Mayonnaise is that while they both require eggs and fat to be emulsified together, Hollandaise requires the eggs to be heated while the Mayonnaise does not.  Hollandaise and Bearnaise then differ really only in the amount of seasoning.  Like my brother and I, one lives for flair and excitement (seasonings and a wine reduction in the Bearnaise sauce) and the other enjoys time at home with a good book (only the introduction of lemon juice in the Hollandaise).  The making of Hollandaise is very simple and honestly takes but a few moments.  In the future, I won’t start this sauce until right before I plate.  I only made enough for two but there were still leftovers, which we used in our breakfast burritos this morning.  I know.  Julia Child just rolled in her grave at the mention of breakfast burritos.  Oh well.  Can’t win them all.  But what you can win is the approval of those around your dinner table when you serve this sauce.

Melt 6-8 ounces butter in small saucepan.  Cover and set aside.  In a medium saucepan, beat 3 egg yolks with a wire whip until they are thick and sticky; about a minute.  Add in 1 Tbsp each of cold water and fresh lemon juice and a generous pinch of salt.  Beat for an additional half a minute.  Add 1 Tablespoon of butter, but do not whip.  Place your saucepan on very low heat and begin stirring the yolk mixture with your whip.  It will take about a minute or two, but the yolks will turn into a smooth, thick cream.  When you can see the bottom of the pan cleanly between 

strokes, you’ve arrived.  Immediately  remove your pan from the heat and beat in an additional Tablespoon of cold butter. (This cools the yolks enough to stop the cooking)  Then, while you continue to beat, stream in the melted butter slowly at first, but then as the sauce takes on a thicker, creamier texture, stream a bit more rapidly.  When all the melted butter is incorporated, season the sauce to taste and serve it with eggs, artichokes, or just with a plain spoon.  It is, heavenly.

Resources:  On Food and Cooking, Mastering the Art of French Cooking

Pip Pip Cheerio!

May I begin this post by stating that I have never understood the allure of an English Muffin?  I’m fairly certain that it’s due to the fact that I once ate a McMuffin.  I think that’s it.  Or the fact that the people I know consider them appropriate for a low-carb diet.  To me, an English Muffin is dense, small and almost stale.  

Despite my negative perception of the baked good, I added it to my list and proceeded to look into it’s history.  Turns out, it’s fairly simple.  And also no longer popular in England.  However, it was in the 19th century when Jane Austen was writing Persuasion.  So popular that it actually garnered a mentioning!  Muffins were the staple of “common folk” during the 17th and 18th centuries, but grew in popularity as tea time became more of a meal than a treat.  During this time, the muffin man arose to conquer the British market.  Yes, I said the muffin man.  The very one of nursery rhyme fame.  The nursery rhyme that my husband used to sing to our very colicky son not so many months ago.  Perhaps that was the reason why I had to learn to make these muffins.  And today I discovered a few things: 

  1. English muffins are actually a yeasted bread, not leavened with baking soda as I had thought.
  2. They are quick cooking and very easy to make.
  3. They are not, in fact, stale.

The recipe is fairly simple: 10 ounces flour, 0.25 ounce sugar, 0.19 ounce salt, 0.14 ounce yeast,  0.5 ounce room temperature butter, 6-8 ounces water (and some cornmeal for dusting).  Mix together all the dry ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer fitting with a dough hook.  Add the butter and 6 ounces of water and mix until the dough forms a ball.  I wound up using all 8 ounces since my dough was rather dry.  Once the ball of dough has formed, mix it on medium speed for 8 minutes.  (*You will need to supervise the dough as it tends to stick to the bowl in places and not get a proper kneading.  Keep some flour on hand to dust the dough with periodically*).  When the kneading is complete, remove the dough from the bowl, lightly oil it and form the dough into a neat ball.  Return the dough to the bowl and cover it with a towel.  Allow the dough 60-90 minutes to rise in order for it to double in size.  (My house wasn’t too warm today, so it took the full 90 minutes.)  

On a clean, lightly floured counter, divide the dough into 6 pieces each weighing 3 ounces.  Form the pieces into a boule and set on a silpat-lined  baking sheet about 2 or 3 inches apart.  Cover again with a towel and allow for an additional 60-90 minutes of rising.  Each muffin should rise upwards and in width during this time.  

Heat a skillet to medium and your oven to 350 degrees.  Lightly grease the entire skillet.  Dust each side of the muffins with cornmeal (I omitted this step and found that I really do like them better this way).  Place each muffin into the skillet, leaving about an inch space between them.  The muffins will begin to flatten out and spread a bit.  Cook for about 5 minutes on each side, checking to make sure they aren’t burning.  When the muffins have been cooked on both side, place them on you baking sheet and put them in the oven for 8 minutes.  Return to any muffins that didn’t make it in the pan turning your first turn and finish them in the same manner.  Allow the muffins to cool for at least 30 minutes before you attempt slicing them.  

I served these with Hollandaise sauce (which I will write about later), poached eggs and sauteed peppers and onions.  They were wonderful.  A nice change from bread and something handy to have in my baking arsenal.  I’m still not completely won over, but I am warming to them.  Perhaps as a sandwich they might finally impress me.  The hubs, he’s already been won over, though.

Resources: The Bread Baker’s Apprentice

The treasure of the 1889 Paris World’s Fair

 Homemade croissants deserve Great=Grandma’s china!
I have a soft spot for pastries made with butter.  I love the way they make such a tender, flaky crumb.  I crave the faint sweetness in the dough.  I cherish the way they melt in your mouth.   And of all the butter pastries, I would certainly say the ubiquitous croissant is my favorite.  I’ve tried them both from a tube and on the streets in Amsterdam.  Obviously, those bought from an elderly woman while on an extended lay-over far outshine those from the grocery freezer case, but I have been held captive for years in fear of making them myself in my own kitchen.  I am not a culinary genius and have never had any formal training.  Therefore, I could not possibly be able to make them myself.  This is the kind of self talk that has been going on for years.  However, this soft spot has slowly worked it’s way out of my heart and into my brain.  Last weekend, I was seized with the desire to not only attempt, but master the croissant.  My personal affection for the pastry is slightly overshadowed by my new-found appreciation of the art.  I will forever be grateful to those Viennese bakers who brought the first croissants to the Paris World’s Fair in 1889.  I can only imagine the response the first time someone bit into the flaky bread.  I imagine those Victorian women fluttering about with their lace gloves stunned by yet another treasure from this tiny country.  As grateful as I am to the original baker, I am even more in debt to the Parisian who decided that the simple yeasted dough would benefit with the addition of butter.  Monsieur, vous est merveilleux!

Being an academic type, I laid out all my cookbooks with croissant references and recipes on Friday night.  I cross referenced until I felt well prepared.  Preparation really is half the battle.  I was less  concerned about my undertaking, but still slightly over whelmed as I began.  With great anxiety, I began the sponge.  I heated 2 cups of milk in a 2-quart pan until my candy thermometer registered 112 degrees (the recipe said between 110 and 115).  Then I added in 1 Tablespoon of sugar, stirred it briefly and sprinkled 1 Tablespoon of yeast over the top.  I covered the pot and let the mixture stand for 5 minutes while I paced around the kitchen.  At the end of the time, I gave it a quick stir with a fork, noting that it was beginning to smell rather yeasty and recovered the pan to wait an additional 5 minutes.  Once that time was up, the yeast had turned the milk into a bubbly, creamy mixture.  With a small whisk, I added in 1 cup of flour and stirred until it was well combined.  Once again, the pan was covered and I set the timer for 30 minutes while I gave my little boy a bath and then prepared the butter.

The completed sponge.

On cold surface (I used a ceramic pastry board), I sprinkled about a tablespoon of flour.  I laid 4 sticks of slightly softened butter side by side, covered them with an additional tablespoon of flour and began rolling them out.  I had to repeatedly cover the butter and my rolling pin with flour until the butter measured about 8 inches square.  Once the desired size was acheived, I transferred the butter to a cookie sheet, covered it with plastic wrap and put it in the fridge to chill.  Little did I know, but the worst part was officially over.

Mixing in action.

In the bowl of my stand mixer, I put 4 cups of flour, 1/3 cup of sugar and 2 tablespoons of very soft butter.  I gave it a brief mix on low speed for about 30 seconds.  Then, with the mixer off, I added in the sponge.  Since this was my first time making a dough that involved a sponge, I was a bit surprised that the wateriness of it.  When I went to pour it into the mixer bowl, it almost splashed out!  Not something I was expecting.  I mixed the bowl’s contents until the dry ingredients were combined and the mixture was smooth, about a minute.  Returning to the pastry board, I floured it and laid my ball of dough down.  I gave it a quick kneed, just so that I was sure everything was combined and smooth.  Then, I patted the dough until it measured about 6 by 8 inches.  The directions said to let the dough rest for 2 minutes, so I did.  Then, with a rolling pin, I rolled the dough until it was about 12 by 16 inches (or roughly doubled if you aren’t measuring).  I scooted the dough so that the 12 inch side was parallel with the edge of my counter and went to get my butter.  The butter was centered as best as I could on the dough before I folded the dough over it as one would fold a letter.  I pressed the edges together to seal 

Dough encasing the butter packet, prior to any turns.

the seems as well as I could.   Now it was time to make the “turns”.  (Sounds ominous, no?  It isn’t really, you just have to remember to count.)   Turning the dough so that the seam was facing my right, I rolled the dough lengthwise until it measured about 21 by12 inches.  Once again, I folded up the dough like a letter, making sure the edges were even.  I placed the dough on a cookie sheet and covered it with plastic wrap.  It then went into the fridge for 20 minutes.  This was end of the “first turn”  By this time, I was really beginning to relax.  I had made it through most of the recipe and still nothing difficult had come up.  The worst part was squishing all that butter together and the only that was awful was because my hand were unbearably greasy afterwards.  Not really something worth stressing out over.  While the dough was taking it’s mandatory rest, I scanned the recipe again, still looking for the caveat.  Nothing.

 

The completed first turn.

I took the dough out of the fridge and returned it to my pastry board, which I had again floured.  I turned the seam to my right, rolled it out to the 21 by 12 inch dimensions, folded it up like a letter and covering it once again returned it to the fridge.  My evening ended with 2 more turns like this and a final covering of plastic wrap.  I wrapped the plastic tightly and in 2 layers so as to make sure no air got in.  The dough then was to rest overnight while I slept and in the morning had a date with my pastry cutter.  I should note here that I foolishly placed the dough on the second shelf of my fridge, not thinking the dough would rise in the night.  The next morning, I did have to take out the top shelf so that I could remove my dough without gouging it to death in the process.  Don’t be fooled by the recipe saying the dough is “retarding” in the fridge.  It will still rise, maybe not as much as it would if it were on your counter, but it will still rise.

Dough the next morning.  Note how the rolling and folding of the dough has made beautiful layers.

I’m pretty sure that if my pastry board had emotions, it would have been shocked to see me again in the morning given this was the most time I had spent with it since acquiring it last winter.  But I tell you, I may never work with a butter based dough on any other surface.  Because the ceramic stays at a lower temperature naturally, it was very easy to work with my dough.  (Case in point, I made some sugar cookies the other night and as the butter warmed in the dough, the resulting cookies were sloppier in appearance than the ones that I made while the butter was still slightly firm.  The resulting cookies were not even close to being presentable for a shower favor.  Instead of cute duckies, they could have passed for the Loch Ness Monster.)  Anyway, this is now the fun part.  With my board scaper, I cut the dough into 4 equal parts.  Reading the directions again, I decided to freeze half the dough, since a full recipe would net 32 croissants and I didn’t know that I could should have that many in the house.  So, I wrapped 2 of the sections up and froze them.  (I’m planning to make them again maybe next weekend and will let you know how that goes.)  I took each block of dough and rolled it out until it was roughly 16 by 8 inches.  Then, I marked the dough at 4 inch intervals.  This gave me 4 rectangles measuring 4 by 8 inches each.  I then poked the dough with a fork to reduce the inevitable shrinkage and pulled the opposite corners of each rectangle so that when I cut it on a diagonal, I would have 2 isosceles triangles.    (My husband is of the opinion that I should have made larger triangles and I would agree.  The size that these produced was closer to that desirable for tea or breakfast.  Should I make these for sandwiches, I will have to at least at an additional 2 inches to the width, if not more.)  Each triangle was rolled up, starting at the widest portion and placed on a cookie 

 Rolled up triangles waiting for their milk bath.

sheet (lined with a silpat) with the tip tucked under.  I bent each croissant so that I would have the traditional crescent shape once they baked off.  I repeated this with each triangle until I had a total of 16 croissants on my baking sheet.  Each croissant got a bath of milk brushed on with a pastry brush and then was allowed to rise for an hour in a warm part of my kitchen.  

 Milk with pastry brush.

I preheated the oven to 400 about halfway through the rising process so that they would be able to have a little extra warmth in the kitchen.  January isn’t very kind to us weather wise, so I find I need to put in a bit more with the care of my yeasted doughs.  Right before I put the croissants in the oven, I brushed them with an egg wash (1 Teaspoon of water whisked with 1 egg).  It is important to note that you shouldn’t be too generous with the egg wash as you are brushing it on.  Start at the bottom of your pastry and try to not let any of it drip on your baking sheet.  Unless you want scrambled eggs with your croissants.  If that’s the case, be sloppy!  Bake the croissants for 10 minutes at 400 degrees and then reduce the heat to 350 and continue baking for an additional 10 minutes.  You can store your finished product once it has cooled for up to 3 days in an airtight container.  Mine didn’t last that long… but to be fair, I did have company.  I put them on my mother’s cake dish and displayed them on my dining room table.  Every time I walked by I was again reminded that I could in fact, do this.  That I made each and every one from scratch and they were good.  Not just good… merveilleux!

Resources: On Food and Cooking, Mastering the Art and Craft of Baking and Pastry, Great Coffee Cakes, Sticky Buns, Muffins & More.

Almost 2 years ago, I started blogging my food adventures.  I was recently married and had a desire to stop being so terrified in the kitchen.  The project began as an exercise to teach myself to cook.  I wanted to learn new ingredients and techniques.  Along the way, I met people who had the same ideas and who were actually living the green lifestyle I wanted.  I read and studied and began to take my food a little more seriously.  These days, we eat a diet of local and whole ingredients.  We are frugal and yet adventurous. I gave myself the name “The Fearless chef”.  It was a bit of a joke, but it empowered me in the strangest way.   Now that I am no longer fearful, I have a desire to master things.  I have compiled a list of 100 recipes that remain enigmas to me.  Over the course of the next year, I hope to master each one of them.  I hope that you will join me along the way!

Main Dishes:

  1. Coq au Vin
  2. Beef Stroganoff
  3. Roast Duck
  4. Duck Confit
  5. Lamb Tangine
  6. Weiner Schnitzel
  7. Cassoulet
  8. Chicken Fricasee
  9. Stuffed Peppers
  10. Beef Wellington
  11. Tandoori Chicken
  12. Chicken Kiev
  13. Chicken Cordon Bleu
  14. Chicken Parmigiana
  15. Crown Roast of Pork

Soups/Sides:

  1. Polenta
  2. Rice Pilaf
  3. Minestrone
  4. Potato Soup
  5. Chicken Noodle
  6. Twice Baked Potatoes
  7. Mashed Potatoes
  8. White Chili 
  9. Baked Beans
  10. Tortilla Soup
  11. Gratins
  12. Macaroni and Cheese
  13. Potatoes Anna

Sauces/Miscelaneous:

  1. Pesto
  2. Compound butter
  3. Ghee
  4. Roasted Red Peppers
  5. Tempura
  6. Mustard
  7. Shallot Vinaigrette
  8. Green Goddess Dressing
  9. Mayonnaise
  10. Hollandaise
  11. Marinara
  12. Royal Icing 

Pasta:

  1. Homemade pasta dough
  2. Ravioli
  3. Tortellini
  4. Gnocchi

Quick Breads:

  1. Short bread
  2. Popovers
  3. Yorkshire pudding
  4. Irish Soda Bread
  5. Biscuits
  6. Cream Scones

Yeasted breads:

  1. Baguettes
  2. Portuguese Sweet Bread
  3. Bagels
  4. Croissants
  5. English Muffins
  6. Hoagie Buns
  7. Pizza Dough
  8. Pita Bread
  9. Pretzels (soft and hard)
  10. Brioche
  11. Sticky Buns
  12. Pumpernickel
  13. Ciabatta
  14. Focaccia
  15. Pane Siciliano
  16. Panettone

Spoon Desserts:

  1. Chocolate Mousse
  2. Chocolate Pudding (homemade pudding in general)
  3. Creme Brulee
  4. Bread Pudding
  5. Lemon Custard
  6. Pot de Creme
  7. Marshmallows
  8. Souffle
  9. Pastry Creme
  10. Italian Meringue

Cakes/Pies/Tarts:

  1. Angel Food Cake
  2. Red Velvet Cake
  3. French Yogurt Cake
  4. Devil’s Food Cake
  5. Basic White Cake
  6. Genoise (Jelly Roll)
  7. Bouche de Noel
  8. Lattice-topped Pie
  9. Tarte Tatin
  10. Lemon Cream Tart
  11. Swedish Visiting Cake
  12. Croquembouche

Cookies/Pasteries:

  1. Danish
  2. Strudel
  3. Baklava
  4. Profiteroles
  5. Handpies/Turnovers
  6. Soft Sugar Cookies
  7. Cannoli
  8. Anisetti
  9. Sables 
  10. Oatmeal Cookies
  11. Sandkakas
  12. Krumkakas